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Kanha National Park
KANHA NATIONAL PARK In the Mandia district of
Madhya
Pradesh, Kanha along with the neighbouring Bandhavgarh National Park, is
the heart of tiger land. With the largest population of tigers in these two
reserves and the adjoining forest areas, Madhya Pradesh has been given the
title of Tiger State. The Surpan river meanders through the central maidans of
this almost 2000 sq kms park ('core' area of 940 sq kms).
The
grasslands of Kanha, interspersed with exquisite sal forests, are teeming with
a variety of deer, barasingha, the cheetal or spotted deer, the chousingha
(four horned antelopes), nilgai or blue bull, wild boar and wild dogs called
'dhole'. But probably the most spectacular animal after the tiger in this
reserve is the gaur or Indian bison. Very similar to the American bison that
were hunted down by American colonisers, the Indian gaur symbolises power. It
looks ferocious and when it comes thundering across the grasslands you have to
seek cover.
The animals of Kanha are best observed from elephant back
and the open country increases the chances of sighting. The forest guards keep
a close watch on the movement of tigers and when one is sighted, an alert is
sounded and several elephants converge on the spot for maximum viewing of this
magnificent creature. However, conservationists have recently been critical of
the cornering of tigers in this manner. At night as you sit outside your forest
lodge sipping cold beer or drinking hot soup, a myriad lights glisten in the
darkness. It is the eyes of a herd of cheetal looking in your direction.
BANDHAVGARH NATIONAL PARK It was at
Bandhavgarh, almost contiguous with Kanha, that the famous white tigers of Rewa
were discovered. Today the progeny of the first family of white tigers can be
seen in zoos across the world. Bandhavgarh has no more white tigers but it does
have the yellow striped royal Bengal tiger in abundance. The park has been
extended from 105 sq kms to 437 sq kms a few years ago.

Set amidst the Vindhyan ranges, half the park has fine stands of sal. Mixed
forests are found in the higher reaches of the hills. The main viewing area is
in the core of the park. An ancient fort, on an 800 metre high precipice,
dominates the park. Bandhavgarh's history goes back 2000 years and the earliest
signs of habitation can be seen in the caves excavated from the cliffs to the
north of the fort. Brahmi inscriptions found here date back to the 1st century
BC. A more recent addition is the hunting lodge of the Royal family of
Rewa. You can traverse the park on elephant back and there are good
chances of spotting a tiger. In addition to the various species of deer you may
spot a fox or a jackal in the jungles of Bandhavgarh. While the best
time to visit Kanha is March to June, Bandhavgarh is open from November to
June. It is closed in July during the monsoons. Both parks are in Central India
and have forest lodges as well as private accommodation. The nearest air
connection to either park is Jabalpur and from there you have to drive
down.
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